Vintage models are hot commodities in the watch world. After all, buying an older timepiece doesn’t just get you a watch, but also a little piece of history. Vintage Cartier watches are particularly sought-after among enthusiasts. They combine intriguing history with designs that literally never go out of style. When you wear a vintage Cartier, you’re wearing a piece of watchmaking lore. Whether you opt for the world’s first pilot’s watch or Jaqueline Kennedy’s timepiece of choice, at Cartier there is no shortage of historical highlights that still pack a punch today. The absolute best part of all? There is a huge selection for women, too. So, join us in discovering some of the most beautiful vintage models that this famous French luxury brand has to offer.
Vintage Luxury Watches
Before we jump straight into Cartier’s archives, let’s clarify what exactly we mean when we say “vintage.” There is no objective definition of the term. Most collectors would agree that a vintage timepiece is at least 20–30 years old. Some place the cut-off point at 1990, but stricter fans insist anything newer than 1980 doesn’t deserve the label. While some prefer watches from the newer end of the vintage market for the lower prices and better overall condition, others argue older models have all the more charm. Certain rare models are exceedingly popular, despite high prices or compromised conditions. At the end of the day, what you consider vintage is somewhat of a personal opinion. As long as it reflects your style and passion for vintage watches, you can’t go wrong.
Want to buy a vintage watch, but don’t know where to start? Check out this article: 5 Tips for Finding Your First Vintage Watch.
Cartier: A Name With History
Cartier was long known as the king of jewelers and the jeweler to kings, but under the leadership of CEO Cyrille Vigneron, the luxury brand shifted focus to its classic timepieces. Thus, the Tank, Santos, Ballon Bleu, and more were thrust back into the limelight. Demand soon followed suit and production was ramped up, reaching an impressive 600,000 units per year. The increased interest in Cartier’s current collection got fans looking to the brand’s past: the world’s first pilot’s watch, the first square watch… the list goes on. Cartier has been writing watchmaking history for decades. Vintage timepieces, Cartier or otherwise, are interesting from a theoretical perspective, but also as practical everyday companions. Whether it’s a women’s classic or men’s icon, the Cartier archives are vast. Read on and discover some of the gems for yourself!
First Things First: Vintage Cartier Tank
Cartier’s most famous watch model is probably the Tank. In this day and age, it’s hard to imagine what a revolutionary design the Tank had at the time of its release. When the angular case first appeared in 1917, it made waves in the industry, and it didn’t take long for it to win over fans. The debut sparked a victory march that has continued for well over 100 years now. There have been a number of memorable moments along the way: From appearances on the silver screen to the wrists of famous individuals, the Tank has made its mark on the industry. The vintage gold Tank Française – Lady Diana’s watch of choice – is still a popular watch for women today. Jacqueline Kennedy is another name associated with the Cartier Tank. Her watch was sold at auction for an impressive $379,500. Women are spoiled for choice when it comes to the vintage Cartier Tank models; the options are seemingly endless.
We can’t forget the men, either. The Cartier Tank Cintrée is undoubtedly the most intriguing model for them. Originally released in 1919, the Cintrée didn’t have a particularly large production run. This is likely due to the fact that its dimensions were ahead of their time. Measuring 44.7 mm long, it is pretty big for a dress watch. However, the generous size is counterbalanced by the elegance of its proportions. It also has the slightest curve, which helps it sit perfectly on the wrist. A vintage Tank Cintrée will definitely appeal to watch aficionados who are looking for something a little out of the ordinary.
The Oldest Watch: Vintage Cartier Santos
The Santos is Cartier’s oldest wristwatch collection and remains one of the most important in the brand’s portfolio to this day. It was designed for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904, with the idea of creating a timepiece that he could read comfortably on his wrist, since using a pocket watch in the cockpit proved impractical. This makes the Santos not only the oldest men’s wristwatch in the world, but also the oldest pilot’s watch. Which vintage Santos should you choose? Make it personal! Perhaps your birth year or that of a loved one? With so many options to pick from, you will definitely be able to find a vintage Santos that’s perfect for you. Few things are better than linking the history of a fine timepiece with a significant personal milestone.
The Legend: Vintage Cartier Pasha
While Cartier was initially famous for its angular watches, the manufacturer soon branched out to round timepieces. One reason for this was the desire to make a water-resistant model, and round watches are easier to seal than rectangular ones. In the 1930s, Cartier experimented extensively in this area, and by the 1940s, the first gold watch with a screw-down case back, crown guard, and a protective grille over the dial was unveiled. There’s a story out there that the Pasha watch was originally commissioned by the Pasha of Marrakesh, but that’s just the stuff of legends. The model has been a bestseller since it entered series production in the 1980s. While there are now smaller Lady Pasha models available, an original vintage Pasha in the standard size with the dial grille makes a beautiful statement piece for women. If you are lucky enough to find one, you can look forward to a timeless watch that seconds as a stunning piece of jewelry.
Vintage Cartier Roadster?
If you’re a bit more flexible with what you consider vintage, be sure to check out the Cartier Roadster. While the model wasn’t introduced until 2001, making the oldest Roadster just over 20 years old, it was discontinued after a mere 10 years. This has subsequently boosted demand. One of the model’s defining features is its tonneau case, which was inspired by 1960s sports cars. But by no means is this a sports watch; no, it’s a dress watch through and through that pairs just as well with formal wear as it does everyday attire. Available in different sizes, materials, and designs, no matter your gender or taste, you’ll find something that appeals to you in this collection.
Last but Not Least: Vintage Cartier Panthère
While the Cartier Panthère celebrated a comeback in 2017, there are plenty of good reasons to choose a vintage version instead. Shortly after being introduced in 1983, it found its way onto the writs of numerous icons, including Grace Jones, Cher, and Elizabeth Taylor. The watch was both straightforward and elegant. Was it a watch or a piece of jewelry? It honestly didn’t matter, because it was both. Of course, you could buy a Cartier Panthère from the current collection if you’re a fan of the look, but if you want to evoke the spirit of the 80s, and the style of those iconic women above, the best way to do so is with a vintage model of this classic.
In Short
Whether it’s the extensive history, unique combination of watchmaking and jewelry craftsmanship, or the pure magic of the brand, Cartier is undoubtedly one of the most exciting places to look for vintage timepieces. Man or woman, newcomer or vintage connoisseur, take a look at what the French brand has to offer and be inspired by the sheer volume of models to choose from. You’ll be taken on a journey through the history of the watch industry, a piece of which you can also own if you decide on a vintage Cartier watch.
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